Wide-Ribbed Socks

A sock with traditional top-down construction and a heel-flap and gusset.
This sock is designed for a man's medium or woman's large size. A finer yarn or tighter gauge will result in a smaller sock.

Yarn: Fortissima Cotton Socka 100 gram skein
Needles: US size 1 1/2 (2.5 mm) dpns
Gauge: 8 sts/inch, 10 rounds/inch over stockinette

Cast on 72 stitches loosely. I use a knitted cast-on; any stretchy cast-on is fine.
Arrange stitches evenly over 3 or 4 dpns and join (making sure not to twist your work!)

Cuff:
Rounds 1-20: (K2, P2) to the end of the round. Cuff should be approximately 1 3/4 inches long.

Leg:
Round 21: Knit Rounds 22-78 : (K5, P1) to the end of the round (ending on a purl stitch). From the top of the cuff to the bottom of the leg is approximately 7 inches long.

Heel flap: The heel flap is knit back and forth. (The 37 instep stitches are held on 1 or 2 needles and not knitted until after the gusset)

Starting with the first knit stitch of your pattern, knit 35 stitches and turn.
(Slp1, P1) repeat across until last stitch, p1 and turn.
Slp1, knit across and turn.
Repeat the last two rows until you have 19 chain stitches on the edge of your heel flap.
End ready to start a knit row.

Turning the heel: (aka short rows)
Slp1, K19, Slp1, k1, psso, k1, turn
Slp1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn Slp1, K until 1 before the gap, Slp1, K1, PSSO, K1, turn
Slp 1, P until 1 before the gap, P2tog, P1, turn
Continue this pattern until you've purled across to the opposite side. There will be 21 stitches on the heel needle.
Knit across.
Pick up 20 stitches along the right hand side of the heel flap. (I usually pick up through both loops of the stitch)
Knit in pattern P1, (K5, P1) across the instep stitches.
Pick up 20 stitches along the left hand side of the heel flap and 10 of the heel stitches.

Gusset: The beginning of the round is the middle of the heel
Round 1: Knit the remaining 11 stitches on the heel and the 20 picked up stitches (needle 1). Continue knitting the pattern stitches across the instep (needles 2 & 3) and knit the second set of heel stitches (needle 4).
Round 2: Knit to the last three stitches on needle 1, k2tog, k1. Knit in pattern on instep needle(s). K1, Slp1, K1, PSSO, knit remaining stitches.
Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until there are 31 stitches on the heel needles. (68 stitches total)

Foot: Continue knitting each round, keeping in pattern on the instep stitches, until length from back of heel to needles is 7 inches (or 2 1/4 inches short of the overall desired length of your sock). Move 2 stitches on each side of your instep from the instep needles to the heel/sole needles.

Toe:
Round 1: Needle #1 Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2, Knit across. Needle #3 Knit across. Needle #4: K1, Sl1, PSSO, K across.
Rounds 2&3: Knit
Round 4: Needle #1 Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2, K1, Sl 1, PSSO, K across. Needle #3 Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #4: K1, Sl1, PSSO, K across.
Rounds 5&6: Knit
Repeat round 4-6 one more time.
Repeat round 4-5 until you have 11 stitches left on your instep needles and 11 stitches on your sole needles.
Knit needle #1s stitches onto needle #4 and arrange your instep stitches onto one needle.

Kitchener (graft) the toe closed.

Repeat for next sock!

Need instructions for grafting a toe? Go here. That's part of a really good online demo of sock-making called Socks 101.

Any questions? Leave a comment (and your email address-seen only by me) and I'll try to clarify.